Do you adjust the shoulder width on a pattern but wonder if you’re doing it correctly? When I make pattern adjustments I always wonder if I am doing it right.
I sometimes realize after sewing a dress that I should have checked the shoulder width. Stretch fabric is so much more forgiving in the fit of a garment that it doesn’t make as much difference as non-stretch would be. The dress is usually quite wearable but I know it could fit a lot better!
I recently tried two different ways to make shoulder-width adjustments and I was curious if I would get the same result. I did! In the end it made no difference which method I used. Yay!
So now I will show you the easier of the two options. The other method involves slashing the pattern and adjusting shoulder-width pivoting the slashed pieces. If you’re interested you can check out this video.
First, measure across your back. Find the end of the bone in each shoulder and measure across your back from shoulder point to shoulder point. Divide that number in half. My shoulder width is 17 inches so half of that is 8.5 inches.
Now, trace your pattern onto another paper. Mark 3/8 inch all around the inside of the pattern to show the seam line. The outside line is your cutting edge.
Next measure across the back bodice from center back to shoulder point. Be sure to measure from seamline to seamline.
The pattern measured 8 inches so that means I need to add 1/2 of an inch to get the right fit.
I made adjustments to the seamline first and then added the cutting line beyond that. The red dot shows 1/2 inch beyond the seamline.
Now take this handy printable French Curve ruler and lay it on the seamline of the underarm curve so that it matches perfectly.
Keeping the curve in place, pivot the ruler so the straight edge matches up with the adjustment mark. Trace the outer edge of the ruler to make your new armhole line.
The red line shows the new seamline.
Add the 3/8 inch seam allowance which the second red line shows. Repeat the above steps on the front bodice and you are ready to cut out!
The next set of instructions are for those that need to adjust the pattern for narrower shoulders.
This method is done on the front bodice but the same steps apply to the back bodice.
The red dot shows 1/4 inch in from the seamline.
Again take this handy French Curve ruler and match it up to the underarm curve.
Pivot the ruler to line up with the 1/4 inch mark. Trace the outer curve to make the new seamline.
The red line shows the new seamline.
Again make the cutting line 3/8 inch from the new seam line. Repeat on the back bodice and you are ready to cut out!
Feel free to leave a comment or ask a question below!
