Maria dress pattern hack

Do you have those times when you need to sew but just feel like doing something different? I have those times a lot! 😉

So this tutorial is an idea I tried on The Maria Dress pattern but you can do it on any pattern you have that has a plain bodice.

Here is what we are going to create!

This is a one piece crossover that crosses over from the right side and ties with another tie on the left side.

Step 1. Trace bodice front onto a separate paper and make it double so that you have the full width of the bodice like this.

Step 2 is making the pattern for the crossover piece.

This is how I did my pattern. I marked the distance from the neckline to where it crosses center front because the first one I did, didn't cover far enough and didn't cross the center front high enough. You want it to cover enough so it doesn't gape or pucker.

Next step is to add a piece on to form the tie.

And cut it out! 😊

Now make the tie for the other side.

Now lets cut out our dresses! Cut the front and back bodice like usual. You can cut out 2 of the crossover piece or cut out 1 and then hem the edges. I am going to cut out 2 (if I have enough fabric). Take note: if you are cutting out only 1 crossover piece be sure to cut it out to cover the right side of the bodice.

I did have enough fabric to cut out 2 crossover pieces! Now it's time to start sewing!

Next step is to sew the crossover pieces right sides facing.

Sew the seams indicated by the arrows using 3/8 inch seam allowance.

Clip the corners on the tie end and turn piece right side out. Press the seams.

Fold tie in half right sides facing and sew one end and along the side using 3/8 inch seam allowance. Clip the corner where the seams meet. Turn right side out and iron.

I wish this picture showed what I did better...

Now lay the crosspiece on the right side of the bodice front and the other tie on the left side. Position the pieces up from the waist at least 3/8 inch. Pin in place and baste along the right shoulder and armhole, and both sides.

Now sew the back bodice to the front bodice at the shoulder seams using 3/8 inch seam allowance. I like to try things on as I go so I am going to sew up the sides seams using a long stitch and try the bodice on to make sure it fits like I would like.

So far so good! 😊

Now let's sew on the neck binding.

Sew the ends of the neck binding together. Then mark the center of the binding to match to the center front bodice. Match the binding seam with the center back bodice. Pin. Finish pinning the binding to the neck hole. Make sure the crossover piece does not get into the binding seam.

When you sew the front skirt on be sure to keep the tie and crosspiece out of the seam.

Like this! 😊

And below is a diagram of how it works best to tie this thing. I know you know how to tie a knot but just in case you get mixed up sometimes...

And the finished dress! I did use the Maria Dress pattern but skipped the split skirt and did it plain instead.

Let me know what you think and you're welcome to send pictures of your finished project! 😊