How is stretch percentage important to a good fit?
Sewing a dress that fits is the ultimate. But what do we do when it doesn’t fit? Cry, scream, jump up and down? 😄
We sometimes feel like it, right?
But really…
What are some good steps to start out with that make the sewing project go smoother with less fitting adjustments?
One of the first steps I found out is figuring out the stretch percent of the fabric I use. Knowing this is very important to a good fit. And so I am going to show you how to figure this out easily!
I want to help you have better sewing experiences and less times of giving up. Let’s make dresses that make us scream and jump up and down with happiness instead of frustration!😂
How stretch percent affects fit
Sewing a dress that turns out is the biggest challenge in sewing our own dresses. And the main reason it feels like it turned out is because it fits well.
If every curve and shape of the body in the dress can be seen the dress is too tight. If the dress looks like a sack or is rather shapeless it is too loose.
Sewing patterns are designed for knit fabric require a certain percent of stretch. Using fabric that has stretch percentage close to the required amount is very important for a good outcome.
For example, I sewed a dress awhile ago using a pattern that required fabric with 25% stretch. I sewed most of the dress before trying it on and it was way too big! So of course I was taking in the side seams time and again to get it to fit well.
Later, when I found out how to test the stretch percent I found that the fabric had 75% stretch! No wonder the dress didn’t fit!
Another time I used fabric that had some give to it but wasn’t really stretchy. I went up a size but the dress still turned out way too tight! I really should have done careful measuring to make sure the pattern would fit in all the key areas. The key areas like the bust, waist and hips.
Figuring out the percent of stretch your fabric has gives a base to start from. This is so that we can have a better idea of what pattern size to use.
How to find the stretch percent of any knit fabric
Now I will give you a formula to easily figure out the percent of stretch in your knit fabric.
Take a piece of fabric across the width, fold over and place a mark at 4 inches from the edge. I am using a piece of Liverpool fabric in this picture.
Hold one end at the 0 mark on your ruler.
Hold the fabric next to the mark and stretch until you feel resistance. Note the number it
stretched to.
My fabric stretched to 6 inches.
Now take the stretched amount and divide it by 4.
6÷4=1.5
Take that number minus 1, times 100. And you have the stretch percent of your fabric!
1.5–1=0.5
0.5×100=50
So this fabric has 50% stretch.
Now you can decide if the pattern your are planning to use needs some adjustments. If the fabric has stretch percent a lot different than the pattern requires you will need to make some adjustments. If it’s close like 5 or 10 percent difference you can just use your pattern like it is.
The importance of stretch percent and the weight of fabric
Different types of stretch fabric have different weights. For example the Double Brushed knits that I have used have about 50% stretch, but a very lightweight. I have used this type of fabric for patterns that require 25% stretch. They turn out very well using the size for my measurements.
Fabrics that are heavy like DTY knits are also very stretchy. You may want to use a smaller size to get a good fit.
Hint: Using a pattern that has a waste seam helps for a better fit when using heavy fabrics.
Next time you get ready to sew a dress using knit fabric, figure out the amount of stretch! See if you aren’t happier with the results of your sewing experience! 😊 Sewing a dress you love is so worth all the effort!
Easily figure out the stretch percent of your fabric using this free printable percentage guide. So if math, numbers and percentages boggle your mind use it instead!
What do you find the most challenging or easiest about sewing with knit fabrics?
Leave your answer in the comments below! I would love to know! 😊
