The first step to sewing a dress is, of course, cutting out the fabric. For me, it is the least enjoyed step. But, there are ways to make it easier and more enjoyable.
The first step, buy enough fabric! There is nothing more frustrating than having to try and fit all the pattern pieces on a piece of fabric that is too small or having to “piece your pieces”.
Before cutting anything out make all the adjustments you need to your pattern pieces. That way you can cut out all the pieces at once. And no need to stop in between to add a bit here or take off a bit there.
So. First things first. Cut out the pattern. And before I cut out my pattern I like to make sure it is going to fit in all the right places. Therefore I have made a pattern checklist of things I like to check and measure on the pattern so I can adjust it before cutting it out. Since each pattern comes in multiple sizes it works well to grade between sizes to get the desired fit.
There is the checklist! You can take measurements or compare the new pattern with an old one that you know fits well and requires the same type of fabric.
And hey, if you don’t need to make any adjustments then celebrate!
Now gather your tools. The most important tool is a pair of sharp scissors. I have used dull scissors many times and it causes much frustration. Using sharp scissors will make this cutting-out experience so much better!
Then you need pattern weights (table knives work well) or pins to keep your pattern pieces in place while cutting. A pen for marking darts and other pattern markings that need to be transferred to the fabric is also very necessary. A regular pen or a fabric pen works but I like to use the Friction pens as the markings disappear when ironed.
Now you need to square your fabric. This is very important! When the fabric is cut to length it is not necessarily cut square. If the fabric is not squared your skirts may hang crooked, and you don’t want your lovely new dress to look crooked!
To square the fabric I line up the selvage edges together and hold up the fabric so that it hangs straight down.
If there are ripples at the folded edge of the fabric like the ones in the above picture, move one selvage edge left or right until the folded edge is smooth.
Here the fabric is hanging smooth with no ripples at the folded edge.
Lay the fabric down on your cutting surface and continue to match the salvages the length of the fabric or as far as your cutting surface allows.
Now you are ready to cut! Always cut the larger pieces such as the skirts, first. Usually, it works to cut out the skirt along the fold and a smaller piece beside it depending on the width of your fabric. As you cut out each piece transfer any required markings such as darts, pleats, and front, back, and center sleeve.
I like to cut with the pattern to the right of my cutting hand. I am right-handed so if you are left-handed you would cut with the pattern to the left of your cutting hand. I find that this way I can cut closer to the pattern and it makes cutting curves a lot easier.
After each piece is cut be sure to keep the pattern piece with the fabric piece so you know exactly which piece it is when you sew it all together.
And the cutting-out experience is over! Make yourself a cup of tea and relax. 😊 You have made a big accomplishment and are well on your way to a new dress!
