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Back to basics Part 3: stitch types for sewing stretch fabrics


Ok, really this should have been part 1. 🙄 But better late than never, right?

When I first started sewing with stretch fabrics I just sewed my dresses with a straight stitch. Popping seams were normal everyday stuff. 🤔

Then I heard there was a solution for this. Yay!

So, the first solution is to sew with a zigzag stitch.

Like this. I like to do a very slight zigzag so that it doesn’t cut into the seam allowance too much.

This is how I adjust the zigzag stitch. It’s a lot narrower zigzag and the stitches are a little longer than the normal setting.

Also, it pays to actually look at the sewing machine manual! 😄I was looking in mine for something else and came across the different stitches my machine does and what to use them for.

😮 I didn’t know what most of them were for! Plus there were quite a few that are meant to sew stretch fabric!

When you think you know your machine, you just might find out that you didn’t know it as well as you thought.

Anyway, I am going to show you a few pictures of the different stitches.

My sewing machine manual calls this a Vari-overlock stitch to be used primarily for fine jerseys and stretch seams and hems. Like the zigzag stitch, this stitch does cut into the seam allowance a bit. The picture below shows how much. It isn’t a lot but just something to keep in mind.

I used this stitch in a recent dress and used it for shorter seams like the neckline and sewing the sleeves in. It does take longer and since I don’t have that much patience I used the zigzag for the side seams and long sleeve seams.

And then there’s one more stitch I want to show you.

This is called double overlock and is also an alternative to serging. You can sew away from the edge like this…

…or right along the edge like this.

It makes a very secure seam. 😊 I personally would use this stitch for sewing on the neckband and sleeves and use the zigzag stitch for the longer seams.

The double overlock stitch makes nice looking hems! That don’t pop threads! In my experience, a zigzag hem still pops threads, especially for active young girls.

And that’s it! Feel free to leave a comment! 😊

By: Cheryl

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  • If you want to sew a seam that absolutely will not pop try the ‘lightening’ stitch, on a bernina sewing machine it is stitch #9. Another stitch I have used, especially for active girls dresses, is the one that is a straight stitch but it’s a triple stitch. I’ve also noticed it’s usually the horizontal seams that pop, so sometimes I just sew them with the stretch stitch and not the long vertical seams! Just a few more ideas!

  • I'm happy to know about these stitches. And I plan to go check my machine out when I sew next time, if it has these options. Which I'm sure it does. Thanks so much!

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